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Braze Repair on a Broken Casting Part 1





In this two part series, I take a broken and busted cast iron housing for a pump and repair it by brazing. Part 1 will consist of all the prep work and brazing. Part 2 will be the machining.

49 thoughts on “Braze Repair on a Broken Casting Part 1”

  1. I need some advice on a repair that I got to do. I got an enormous old very very very old Power hacksaw it's a Racine but it's way way way predates the Racine's you've probably seen this is like early 1900s it was converted to run on a motor at some point. It's an awesome piece of equipment and I've been repairing it slowly it still works but some of the cast iron cracked where it holds the backing plate for the back of the vise. There is a 1 inch lip that protrudes up at the back of the bad that the backing plate gets its squareness from and keeps from turning. It's hard to describe but anyway I need to braise a strip of cast iron to replace the broken section of this one in I'm going to grind it down and slightly slot or make a pocket for the new piece to sit in and then I want to braise it but how much of this do I have to preheat I do not want to crack the bed of this thing. Do I just have to get that area smoking I mean I can't get the whole machine hotter than hell. It seems like it would set up a crack somewhere. I've raised a lot of cast iron but never anything this big.

    I need advice? Anybody?

  2. Norman May says:

    Believe it or not, one of the best additions to a shop that I have seen over the years was an electric stove with the self cleaning option. Why? Well when you do cast iron repairs you can throw the part into the oven and set the heat up to the highest level, normally around 550 F, and let the part heat soak for as long as you want. Since you're using an oven, the entire part is heated evenly and the weld repair will come out with less distortion. You can also throw the part back in and reheat should it be required or use the oven to slow cool the part by placing it inside when the welding is done and then slowly reduce the heat back down until the part is cool. Why self cleaning? Self cleaning ovens go to 900 F when cleaning to burn off all the food matter that's left in the oven for cooking. When you stress relieve parts the temperature is held at 550 to 650 C (1022 to 1202 F) so when your oven is in the self cleaning mode it can hold a temperature just under what would normally be used for stress relieving. Heat your part up with a torch to 1100 F, wrap it in ceramic wool, and put it in your preheated oven and let it soak and slow cool. (You have to defeat your oven lock out and preheat it to the self cleaning temperature) It's a simple and inexpensive way to control heat and leaves you with a superior product.

  3. that pump was FUBAR, Nice Save !!! 👍

  4. antigen4 says:

    say what you will about the previous repair job it seems the metal which this casting is made from was (metallurgically) a poor choice and perhaps it might be overall smarter to re-cast it in a better material?

  5. you see all that yellow in the ring you made you heat hardened it ill bet lol 24:03

  6. it looks cast Adam maybe they should consider making a mold from it at least so stave of the inevitable i doubt you're gonna fix it again if it brake yet again its broke twice already if it job critical they need to give it so foresight.

  7. Erik Joven says:

    This may be a silly question but – i don't really know about this industry and i am curious. Are the castings THAT expensive that its really more cost effective to pay for labor/material to repair it? Or is the the choice to repair it more about the difficulty of finding specs for the original casting or something along those lines?

  8. morgorth3242 says:

    why not make a cad model and cnc out a new one? 🙂

  9. Putting g puzzle together, except you got make up missing pieces, nice job, I learn so much watching your work

  10. Gordon Agent says:

    Good job Adam, having a good look at this as have to braze up a cast cheek on my curving roller and this info gives me great insight and confidence. Need to watch part 2 now so stop distracting me.

  11. Ray Falcone says:

    again,you did it with another great technical video.i really enjoyed this one .and thanks for showing us your great wealth of thechnical skills,you gotta give credit where it is due.

  12. Toby W says:

    Hmmmm, I do not see any radius on that flange where it joins the rest of the casting unless it is a recessed one. Might not hurt to stress relieve it if you can after the braze is finished and if the brass will stand the temperature. With all due respect to your art of course, Adam … You do this for a living and I do not.

  13. The off pattern hole might be so it only bolts on one way; so you can’t bolt it on upside down.

  14. Muito bom, trabalho profissional!!!

  15. Adam, for all your prowess in machining you seem to ALWAYS stop short when attempting to weld, braze, etc a part.

    You always say…"there's a couple low spots and I wish I would of filled it in a bit more".

    lol, I love you man, but damn take your own advise and fill that shit in!!!

    You got plenty of rods, braze material, etc… and since you're a machinist God, you can always dress the weld down flush so that you don't have low spots!

    Anyone else bugged by this? or am I the only A-hole giving Adam shit about this? lol

    love you bro! haha

  16. Dan Webster says:

    BAD ASS subbed -pawPaw

  17. brian foley says:

    my brother used to do repairs on broken castings, all the preparation takes 3 times longer than the brazing
    does…. not everyone can do this work…..

  18. Frank Molina says:

    I don't know what that was used for but, it looked like replacing it was a better idea.

  19. When to use flux for the brazing and how to know the perfect time to use it ?

  20. Excellent quality of work!! Great video. Thanks

  21. eromusofwom says:

    were you ever worried about putting too much heat too quickly? I'm an amateur but I might have taken a short break here and there.

  22. Arno Dyck says:

    Wouldn't it be better to weld that with high nickel content stick electrode that is intended for cast iron repair? That stuff has worked amazingly well for me.

  23. Deric Kettel says:

    2 minutes in and I'm hooked!

  24. Your in Keith Fenner's Territory!

  25. Patriot1776 says:

    Wonderful that the customer decided it was time to get the repair done the RIGHT WAY this time. They had seen that the previous repair effort had failed and realized if the 'quick-fix' method was tried it would only fail even sooner and so after also finding out the part was possibly no longer even made anymore they had no choice but to send it off with the hope it could be brazed back up and you came through in a huge way! ^^

  26. after watching Keith Fenner do brazing, one thing he does is insulate the whole thing and wait for it to cool down slowly (overnight). Do you see any advantage to this or do you think it's an extra precaution that isn't really necessary? I'm not asking you to critique him, just wondered why you don't do the same.

  27. All your videos are great! I've learned a lot from you. However, when you braze could you please put a lens over your camera so we can see how you control your braze puddle and heat. I've brazed cast iron on my Lathe legs, but my braze job doesn't look nearly as good as yours!!!!!!!

  28. Dee Dubbs says:

    Wow, you did a hell of a job on that jigsaw puzzle, looks damn good

  29. Mike Hill says:

    Why wouldn't u use silicon bronze and tig it ???? it works much better brazing and looks better also

  30. John Galt says:

    i would think that cutting the flange off and welding a new one on would be a mobetta fix… but what do I know?

  31. Mark Fryer says:

    Adam, when I first saw the extent of the breakage, I was ready to declare it B.E.R [Beyond Economic Repair]. I am very suspicious about the story they told you about "They cant find a replacement part". They maybe suffering sticker shock, hence the decision to go with the repair option. Once I saw your support ring and having seen Keith Fenner do some cast repairs, I was quietly confident that you would "getter done."

  32. Daniel says:

    Claiming that the moisture is from the casting is a common misconception. Water is a common byproduct of combustion, including oxy-propane (or was that oxy-acetylene you were using?). The hotter air is, the more moisture it can hold. When the hot gasses hit the cold casting it cools the air and it can no longer hold the water (same process as dew), so it condenses onto the part. Iron/steel isn't full of moisture, it's from the torch.

  33. Jetstreamer says:

    So how did you know that the molten braze wouldn't make it through the crack and braze the casting onto your ring? Also, why didn't it stick in the places it did come through around the bolt holes?

  34. bicylindrico says:

    How would that crack have happened in the first place? Seems like a setup for another.

  35. howder1951 says:

    Great looking repair Adam, ver nice brazing job!

  36. Don Quixote says:

    Have a small part (old stone grind wheel/part lets stone wheel spin – has ball bearings) don't know what it's called and it has slightly crumbled. I think its aluminum but a 100+ yr old item maybe other metal? The mention of you having a customer is why I am asking. Who would I contact for such a repair or to make a new one. How does one engage the services of a machinist?

  37. tomeejr says:

    Metalene (?) for pre heating ? Did I hear that correctly ?

  38. Sebass Black says:

    I Initially thought you where going to cut the ring off and replace it with the pipe piece in the background. Thank you for your videos.

  39. It's been 6 days already!
    Where's part 2?
    LOL

  40. A65Bill says:

    may I ask why you don't pre-coat the joint with flux to prevent oxides forming? I learned it that way in school 50yrs ago & just do it. thanks.

  41. Joe Morris says:

    Hi Adam,  I'm guessing that there is an alignment problem with the piping and the motor base That can be a major problem with pumps. >Joe

  42. Barry Beggs says:

    That moisture that you see is the metal passing through the dew point at around170 degres as you are  pre heating..thats why a welder pre heats a boiler tube to220 to240 degres to take the tubes through the dew point.I was a cert. welder for 25 years.Inspectors watched that real close

  43. I discovered that grinding bevels smears the material somehow and the brazing alloy wets easier if the surfaces are hand filed or finished with a carbide burr. I doubted this until I ground one side of a joint and filed the other and the ease of wetting was obvious.

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