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Toilet Flange Repair Using a Toilet Flange Extender (Step-by-Step)





Sioux Chief Closet Ring, Stainless Steel – http://amzn.to/2mRT50v
Sioux Toilet Flange Repair Ring -http://amzn.to/2jeGO1h
Sioux Chief Push-Tite (for 3″ pipe) – http://amzn.to/2BeOetl
Sioux Chief Push-Tite (for 4″ pipe) – http://amzn.to/2iFQl1W
Sioux Chief Extension ring – http://amzn.to/2iGJRQa
Fluidmaster 7111 3-Inch Floor Bolts – http://amzn.to/2iINnJV
Mold-free Silicon – http://amzn.to/2A4stfW
Channellock Crescent wrench – http://amzn.to/2hKLZp5

Toilet flange repair can be daunting but it can also be simple.
Today you’ll learn how to raise the height of a toilet flange using a toilet flange extender.

For a full written tutorial visit https://www.homerepairtutor.com/toilet-flange-repair/

First things first, why do you need the closet flange to be raised? Well, if it’s below the finished floor you’ll develop a leak between the toilet bowl and wax ring.

Wax rings will compress over time and if the toilet flange is below the tile floor or wood floor the wax compressed too much.

What’s the solution?

You can add a toilet flange extender or spacer. These are a few dollars but will save you from fixing damaged drywall or worse a wood subfloor caused by a leaky toilet bowl.

If your old closet flange is broken you’ll have to fix that first. We discuss 3 different options in the video. My favorite is the gasketed push in closet flange. Super easy to install and anybody can do it.

Once the closet flange is repaired you can add a flange extender. Simply clean off the wax from the old wax ring and apply a generous bead of 100% silicone sealant on the old closet flange. Also, apply silicone to the extender ring. Place the extender onto the old closet flange and use extra long (3 1/2″) closet flange bolts to compress the two together.

My video has all the details.

Btw, this is my CYA, I’m not responsible for any toilet leaks…it’s up to you to inspect your work and make sure it’s up to code. This video is meant to be for entertainment purposes.

43 thoughts on “Toilet Flange Repair Using a Toilet Flange Extender (Step-by-Step)”

  1. My Sharona says:

    Good job and good repair. Glad I watched it. P.s. some plumbers are a joke.

  2. Thank you so much. I am a single mom and it’s hard to pay for home improvements. You’ve helped me!

  3. Len Martin says:

    The problem I have is that the original flange is broken so the fasteners pull right through. I am assuming then that I can screw down the repair flange.

  4. Well in 7 years some one is going to have fun….

  5. Tommy Nguyen says:

    Thank you very much for your video.

  6. Mark Cuellar says:

    Nice job securing the flange spacer with washers and nuts. Too many times I've tried to replace toilets only to find the bolt spinning when attempting to undo the nut. It's frustrating, especially since securing the flange with washers and nuts prevents this.

  7. Mark Cuellar says:

    The flange is rusted, replace it. The flange bots are secured to that rusted flange. When that flange completes rusting through, nothing but gravity will be holding the toilet in place. Better to do the job right the first time and install a new flange.

  8. Mark Cuellar says:

    May I suggest moving that drain. It DOES NOT meet Code where it is.

  9. Shawn Casali says:

    First off. This is not a repair. It's a jerry rig. Lol. Secondly. If your going to repair it. Take the old one out and do it correctly. Your gonna have issues as soon as that lower flange finishes rotting out. Your plumber must have sucked if this is how he told you to do it.

  10. The flange should sit flush on the finished floor…not the sub floor.

  11. mark p says:

    I would have hired the plumber to finish the job if that's the best you can do. It will leak again and destroy the ceiling below.

  12. Swol says:

    Mine didn’t even have bolts. It’s just wax and old flange. What the hell do I do?

  13. SmokeStack says:

    Ok so i got a problem someone apparently socked this toilet i'm looking at down from the top into the wood floor with bolts. The base is leaking and the bolts are no longer doing anything as the water has soaked into the wood. What am I going to have to do?

  14. TigerNgtMare says:

    A blind guiding another blind, great! If you're not a plumber why are advicing people.. Home owners may end up with a major repair. I am a License G.C. and even my self don't do plumbing or electrical because there's a huge liability specially doing plumbing on a second floor. People hire a license plumber, not a handyman and specially don't follow advice from a guy that says he is not a plumber. At the end I don't really care because I am the one fixing the stupidity of others.

  15. Please watch this old house to see how to fix a flange. You dont use spacers. The master plumber on this old house Cleary points this out.

  16. TomKaren94 says:

    NEVER use a spacer. They are not water tight.

  17. Aerial says:

    They don't use wax anymore.

  18. cmetube says:

    If that's a lead pipe, aren't the johnnie bolts going to move around and get loose over time with the toilet? Shouldn't those bolts be locked down to below the subfloor and to the subfloor instead?

  19. jerry myer says:

    I'd never done such plumbing job as this before I watched several videos including this to replace a broken toilet flange. Since new thicker tiles were laid on the wood substructure several years ago, there was leak due to broken flange. After watching this video,I went to home depot to buy a 4" flange and a 4" spacer. This combo seemed to fit but the spacer moves around on the flange pretty much and the gap between flange and spacer is not acceptable to me as a dental lab technician. So I bought a 1/4" extender and put it under the flange finishing the job. I feel now comfortable. The method on this video is another option though.

  20. Mark Kolecke says:

    Hey there! Loving your videos. Plumbing is a pain in the backside isn’t it? Silicone was very smart. The only changes I would make is finding some toilet hardware that will not rust out eventually. Basically anything magnetic will rust out. We use Johnni bolt brand 5/16 hardware with an extra set of nuts to hold those bolts in place when hour awkwardly attempting to place the bowl back. Wax is good. Those solid rubber gaskets are better and don’t leak if they get plunged a lot. Also if warm air from below happens to flow through the floors like radiant heat. Lookin good home repair tutor.

  21. 8 year old says:

    Just finish the job you already halfway through

  22. Irony? Sitting on the toilet watching a video about fixing my toilet.

  23. Rob Martin says:

    Sorry, late to the party… big question… I cannot see any "holes" on the top of my cast iron flange. It is still covered in a small amount of wax. I see a lot of people suggesting drilling through the cast iron to use screws to secure the spacer to the sub floor. My questions are many;

    1. drilling through cast iron to drive screws into the sub floor is dangerous. Cast Iron Cracks.
    2. How do you get the top of the cast iron flange CLEAN enough to accept silicone… I can't get this damn wax off!!!
    3. Once the spacer is in place and secured to the top of the cast Iron flange, are you suggesting there won't be any movement when you place the porcelain God on the wax ring and push down?
    4. I was told to put the wax ring on the bottom of the throne, rather than place it on top of the flange, thereby guaranteeing its placement in the right spot.

    This is happening tommorow and I don't want to screw this up.. .Please advise asap.

  24. Mark Shaver says:

    Your "plumber" is a complete hack if those are the solutions he gave you to fix that

  25. bwhit417 says:

    The problem I'm having is that whoever put the flange in to begin with set it 180 degrees the wrong way. So the part where the flange bolts could just slide in are top and bottom. So they just used the screw/bolt and screwed the toilet into the subfloor. The bolts broke off into the subfloor. Sad face. Any tips on how to fix this disaster?

  26. Rich Waldrup says:

    I had to replace my rotting bathroom floor.. Ive got my new floor down .. All except for around the flange area. Im not sure how to cut my wood to fit snug arpund my flange pipe.. Can you please help an amature plumber.lol

  27. Mama Shap says:

    Toilet is liking again 100

  28. pcdubya says:

    I just did the exact same thing to raise my floor 3/8" after installing LVP, except I took out the screws holding the original flange in, ( Mine was in a wood sub floor ) and THEN ran them back in, this time through the newly applied spacer which I put down in a thick bed of silicone over the original. Spacer ended up being 1/8" higher than the finished floor which is exactly what the toilet maker and wax ring instructions recommended. Put in thick wax ring with a horn, and good to go.

  29. You've mentioned a couple of times that the "wax rings will compress, and eventually compress to the point where the wax is no longer touching the bottom of the toilet bowl." However, this isn't proper thinking. Yes the wax ring will compress, just as if you were to put the wax in a vice and squeeze. But then it won't compress further unless to continue to squeeze. The same physics apply to the water closet bowl, as it would with a vice. As long as your floor is sound, you simply tighten the flange bolts to the point where the bottom of the toilet is snug against the floor. The wax will have compressed, but it will never compress any further than that. It can't just magically compress without some force to push it down further. As your floors are solid, and so is your porcelain fixture, it's impossible for there to be another force which would further compress the wax so long as both the toilet and floors are sound. Hope that helps

  30. It wasn’t level and he said well that’s for another day Lol

  31. Dan The Man says:

    Jesus can I get that 7 minutes back? This guy STILL has poop dripping in the dining room. No wax ring Bob Vila? Yowser, a lot of yellow getting mellow in this guys place.

  32. KTOWELL1120 says:

    So you out two sets of bolts on? One set over the flange and another set once the toilet is on?

  33. Stan Lee says:

    because the shim and silicone wont settle and cause a leak , but double wax ring will

  34. Please call your plumber

  35. Nitrofan69 says:

    I agree with some of the other commenters. That spacer flange should of been screwed down. I would of went with Push Tite instead. And sorry but that was a very sloppy silicone job. Just saying.

  36. How long did it take to dry up

  37. dojmike says:

    Clean that rusty flange with a wire wheel before applying silicone, or you will get another leak.

  38. Is just me or did he say measure it “12” inches from the wall and that’s where the closet bolts go, but why did he marked it at 11 inches lol

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